Where was this muck coming from? Evidently sand particles from the casting of the 6.0L engine blocks can leach out of the metal and into the water jacket, according to the experts. When this murky coolant was drained and allowed to sit still for a time, a fine silt settled to the bottom. But we found a few other items in the coolant system that required some attention as well.Īfter disassembling a number of failed heat exchangers (for both the EGR and oil system), and also noting a significant difference between oil and coolant temperatures, the source of the affliction become apparent: sludge and debris. Here’s a stock 6.0 Power Stroke, viewed from the location where the coolant filter will be installed. The point here is that just because you have 100K-mile coolant in a vehicle, if it’s more than three years old, it’s no longer 100K coolant. At right is a new tank, at left is a used one, showing discoloration. These two coolant reservoirs from a Duramax show how contaminated coolant can get over time, and why it needs to be checked regularly. Don’t run any number higher than a 24072, because you can actually put too much conditioner in the system, which will also cause fallout of casting sand from the block. You can use just about any brand of standard coolant filter on the market, such as from NAPA or the IE WIX, but only with a minimum amount of additive (part number 24070 has no additive, and 24071 has the lowest amount of conditioner inside the filter). The ball valves make it easy to replace the filter with a minimum of drips. It includes a billet coolant filter housing, mounting bracket, pipe plug, two stainless steel ball valves, a pair of coolant lines, and installation hardware. The coolant filter system from T&A Performance is simple to connect, requiring less than a couple hours of labor. And on the 6.0L, whose oil cooler has minute water and oil passages, this can spell death to the cooler and EGR cooler downstream. This gets a lot more out than just a drain and re-fill.Through the process of corrosion from combining aluminum and steel parts on an engine, debris can find its way into the cooling system. Go a little further and remove the coolant plug(s) in the side of the engine block.Just drain the radiator by removing the petcock.Usually running the engine until it is hot, draining cleaning fluid, then adding the additive. Buy the cheaper kit with just the chemicals.Buy a flush kit with cleaning and additive chemicals and a hose "T" from the local Autozone or other parts store chain.Do not use the newer type since you truck is older. ![]() Thanks.Īnswer: There are several ways to flush the cooling system of your vehicle. Truck has a lot of miles want to do some maintenance. Question: I'm just needing to know how to FLUSH my cooling system before i add new coolant to it. Many times a blown head gasket will not show an external leak but instead the pressure will cause the mix, especially on a diesel with so much cylinder internal pressure. Also if the engine is running bad then this could could also be the cause. You can do this with the engine running as well looking for bubbles. This would be the sign of a blown head gasket. If the pressure test shows that it won't hold then look in the radiator for bubbles. Then a good flush of the cooling system would also be needed as residual oil would still show up for some time in the antifreeze. If there is no sign of external leaks on the engine or a head gasket problem, then the oil cooler is most likely the problem and the radiator would have to be replaced. The antifreeze is discolored and has a sort of goo all around the radiator cap and inside.Īnswer: The oil cooler is located inside the radiator. ![]() ![]() We were also wondering where the oil cooler is located on this truck. Question: I would like to know why oil is getting into the radiator and coolant.
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